Friday, May 3, 2013

Sankt Goar to Mainz






Mainz is most famous for being the birthplace of Johannes Gutenberg, the inventor of the printing press. Gutenberg is regarded as one of, if not the most, significant contributor of the second millennium. The Gutenberg-Museum Mainz contains a replica of his printing press and a copy of the Gutenberg Bible, considered by some to be his greatest print work. It was well worth the 5,00 € entry fee.







The Roman-Germanic Central Museum contains exhibits from the Stone Age to the Medieval period. For an entry fee of 3,00 € I got to see some great Roman artifacts, such as this celestial globe that was once part of a sundial.



I also visited the Landesmuseum Mainz, one of the oldest museums in Germany. 



They have art and artifacts from prehistory to modern. One of my favorite pieces was this eagle brooch with inlaid stones from the Ottonian period, c. 980-1000.


Friday, April 19, 2013

Koblenz to Sankt Goar





This week I’m travelling from Koblenz to Sankt Goar…the long way…by way of Burg Eltz castle.


Burg Eltz was built in the 12th century and has been in the Eltz family ever since. Although it has seen its share of war and fighting, it has never been destroyed. It has definitely been restored, but never completely rebuilt. Allegedly, it had some narrow escapes. At one time it was on a list of buildings to be destroyed, but a family member was a high ranking military officer and deleted it from the list. In another tale, the locals lured some would-be raiders to a nearby corn field and set fire to it (and the raiders, too).


The castle rests on an oval-shaped rock and blends nicely with its foundation. This results in some unusually shaped rooms.



The castle also boasts a collection of hundreds of German metalworks spanning over 8 centuries. The Armory and Treasury tour is self-guided, and it is included in the castle’s guided tour fee of € 6.50 (student discount!). Here are some of my favorite pieces.


This is a drinking vessel called “Gluttony being conveyed by Drunkenness.”


This is a beautiful piece of ivory and silver. It features the Roman mythological goddess Diana in a hunting scene. It is also a drinking vessel.


Here is another piece featuring Diana. This is called "Diana Riding a Stag", and it is described as a “mechanical drinking game on wheels.” Here is how they say the game was played:

“Diana was wound up and then moved around the table. Wherever she stopped, the man had to empty the stag and the woman had to empty the dog, both of which were filled with wine. Both cups were connected with short chains, thus forcing the drinkers to get close.”

I’m thinking these people knew how to have fun.

Then it was on to St. Goar. 


St. Goar and its sister city St. Goarhausen lie directly across from each other on opposite sides of the Rhine. The 2 cities are named after a clergyman named Goar who settled here to care for shipwrecked sailors, which was very common here. This is a very dangerous spot for ships because it is the deepest and narrowest spot on the Rhine. It has been the site of so many shipwrecks, in fact, that it inspired the very popular legend of the Loreley, the name given to the huge cliff at St. Goarhausen.


The legend of the Loreley dates back to an early 19th century poem by Clemens Brentano. According to the legend, a beautiful woman sits atop the cliff combing her long, golden hair and sings. Her beauty and singing are so alluring that they are said to mesmerize sailors, and in this hypnotic state, the seamen lose control of their ships and crash against the rocks.


Scholars have quite a different theory to explain the extraordinary number of shipwrecks. They believe the word “Loreley” comes from a root word that means “to buzz” or in some other way refers to loud noises. One theory suggests that the high cliffs and narrow channel create an acoustical environment that amplifies the sounds of the rushing water not only coming from the river, but also from a small waterfall that was once in the area. The cacophony of echoing sounds would have been distracting enough, but when combined with a narrow waterway which left little room in which to maneuver watercraft, this greatly increased the potential for danger.



The visitors’ center had some great displays and a 3D movie that were well worth the € 2.50 admission price.




When it came time to settle down for the evening, I considered which of the 3 types of accommodations would best suit me. All 3 types were available in the area. First, there was the Loreley-Jugendherberge St. Goar, with prices starting at € 16.00.


Although the view was great, a school group was staying there. The thought of being stuck in the same building with a bunch of screaming school children all night made me start to twitch. So, I decided my sanity was worth more than € 16.00.

The B&B Bei Alex seemed like a good alternative.


The rates were reasonable, starting at € 36.00 for a single room, and it is located 300 feet from the Rhine river. I thought it would be peaceful to listen to the sounds of the river while I slept. However, a fellow tourist pointed out that the natural acoustics not only amplify the sounds of the river, but also the sounds of the trains. Instead, he recommended the Berghotel auf der Loreley.


The Berghotel is literally on top of the Loreley. It had great views, and the idea of getting a peaceful night’s sleep made the € 75.00 for ein Doppelzimmer inkl. Frühstück well worth it. The only drawback was that, apparently, a lot of other people had the same idea. The place was packed. So, it wasn’t exactly the quiet sanctuary I had hoped for. Nevertheless, I had a great stay.










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Friday, March 29, 2013

Königswinter to Koblenz






Koblenz is located at the confluence, or converging point, for the Rhine river and the Moselle river. In fact, the name “Koblenz” evolved from the Latin word for confluence, “confluentes.” The literal meeting point for the 2 rivers is called the Deutsches Eck, or German Corner.


There is a huge equestrian statue of Kaiser Wilhelm I, who was responsible for the reunification of Germany in the late 19th century. The original statue was destroyed during World War II, but the monument was restored and a new statue was installed in 1993.




There is a cable car and lift called the Seilbahn that carries passengers across the Rhine and up to the Festung (fortress) Ehrenbreitstein. The combined cable car and fortress ticket price is 11,80 €.



Activity and even buildings on Festung Ehrenbreitstein date back to the Bronze Age, 1200-900 B.C.E. A castle was built around 1000 C.E. and the present fortress was first built in the 17th century. From a military standpoint, it is an ideal location for an outpost. It can only be accessed from one direction, the north, because it is surrounded by steep slopes in all other directions. Also, its height affords excellent views of the area, making it easy to see an enemy’s approach. 


The fortress actually looks more impressive from a distance. You can’t really take it all in when you’re up close. However, the view from the fortress to the valley is spectacular.


The Landesmuseum Koblenz or National Museum in Koblenz Ehrenbreitstein is located in the fortress. Admission is included in the fortress ticket price. 


Inside there were some photo collections and other exhibitions, but actually the most interesting part for me was the glass blowing exhibition.




After that it was off to the Kurort at Bad Bertrich, but on the way I made a stop at the Goloring.

The Goloring is a large circular ditch that is proportionately similar to Stonehenge, but without the megaliths. It dates to 1200-800 B.C.E., much later than Stonehenge. Based on the ruins, this is what experts believe it may have looked like originally.


Its exact purpose remains a mystery. Like Stonehenge, it is oriented in a way that suggests it was used as a solar calendar. However, there are a number of graves in the area, suggesting it was more than a calendar. Some believe it was a meeting place for druids and regard it as one of the most significant Celtic cultural relics in central Europe. It is suggested that it was used to create a space separated from the secular world in order to deal with religious matters. No one knows for sure. Perhaps it served more than 1 purpose or different purposes at different times.


From a sightseeing perspective, it really isn’t much to look at. In fact, it really isn’t even open to the public and you have to work with the locals to gain access. Today, it’s just a big circular ditch surrounded by a bunch of trees. Yet, in spite of its lackluster appearance, I am intrigued by the mystery surrounding it.

Then it was off to Bad Bertrich. 


Bad Bertrich is an official state spa, or Staatsbad, and health resort in the Eifel mountains. It was awarded this title in 1475, but its history goes back much farther than that. The area was formed by volcanic activity millions of years ago, and it boasts a natural hot spring that was used by the ancient Romans and is purported to have healing properties.


The place is a veritable health Mecca. There is a salt spring that claims to provide relief from arthritic and gastrointestinal ailments.


The Vulkaneifel thermal spa has saunas and indoor and outdoor pools.


The resort even has its own coin currency, the Bertricus-Taler. It works just like cash and can be used for purchases just like the euro. The exchange rate with the euro is 1:1.


I thought Der Landschaftstherapeutische Park, or The Therapeutic Landscape Park, was interesting. It is named “Römerkessel,” or “Roman kettle,” and it is a series of gardens designed specifically by Munich psychologists to create an atmosphere in which to “de-stress” or “decompress.” It is the first therapeutic landscape park in Europe.


There are signs with tips for mindfulness at each garden.


The whole goal is to create a peaceful, relaxing atmosphere to allow you to direct your life toward greater joy and happiness by formulating goals and finding “creative solutions to change unfavorable circumstances,” thus increasing your overall health. They call it “emotional care.” It really makes a lot of sense.


There are a variety of packages that mix and match services and accommodations, ranging from 96 € per night for the “no frills” package and 2-night stay, to the 699 € per night for the “Fasting according to Dr. Buchinger 7-day cure” package and 7-night stay that includes a “Caviar luxury treatment.” Since I’m not into caviar or fasting, I opted instead for the 5-night “Eiffel-out” package at 529 € per night. It included a massage and a visit to the Römerkessel.



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